We were super excited to be in Lisbon because all of our friends that went loved it and raved about the food there. Plus our Airbnb host, Nuno, sent us recommendations of things to do along with links to his favorite Fado music to get us in the mood for exploring Lisbon. He was really nice and very welcoming.
And then we flew from Barcelona to Lisbon on TAP Portugal.
For a short flight, TAP Portugal still provided sandwiches and a Portuguese pastry for the "cattle class"!
We were in love with Lisbon--even before we landed.
(Below are our Top 8 for Lisbon followed by our full itinerary at the bottom.)
Top 8
1. Nosh on Portuguese Delicacies along the Bario-Alto/ Chiado Walk
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| Codfish cakes (Picture 1A) |
We spent a few hours on foot exploring the Bario Alto and Chiado districts following Rick Steve's Lisbon guidebook, where he points out unique shops, view points, famous lifts, and characteristic hilly charms of Lisbon. Aside from taking in the sights, along the way were exciting Portuguese snacks to try. That's one of the greatest joys of travelling-- getting to try new foods from different cultures. Even if it doesn't sound like something we would like, we'll give it a try if the city is famous for the delicacy.
Our first find on the walk were these egg-shaped codfish cakes (Picture 1A) at Casa Portuguesa do Pastel de Bacalhau. They were filled with Serra da Estrela cheese and served on a cute tray with a cup of madeira (fortified wine). There was a long line to order and pay (about 9 euros), and then another line to pick up your order, but the lines moved fast, and you can watch them make these famous Portuguese specialties while you wait. Crispy on the outside, but creamy and slightly salty and fishy (in a good way) on the inside, this delicacy was worth the wait.
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| Ginjinha (Picture 1B) |
Later, we stumbled upon an outdoor market stall that sold ginjinha, a Portuguese liqueur made by infusing ginja berries (sour cherries) in alcohol and then sweetening with sugar and other spices. The Rick Steve's book had described this drink and said to try it at 'A Ginjinha', a small bar at Largo de Sao Domingos. But since the stall at the outdoor market sold the ginjinha as shots in edible chocolate cups (Picture 1B), at 2.50 euros a shot, we decided this was a far easier way to sample the drink than squeezing into the 3 person at a time bar at 'A Ginjinha'. We bought 2 to try and it tasted a bit like the holidays to me with notes of cinnamon and nutmeg in the liqueur.
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| Mercado de Baxia Grilled Pork and Pickles (Picture 1C) |
Close to the Praça de Figueira was "Mercado de Baxia", a covered outdoor farmers market, selling portuguese sausages, meats, cheeses, breads, desserts, drinks, and art work. It was fun to browse around and watch some of the stalls cooking food. We decided to get these griddle cooked pork (Picture 1c) with pickled veggies, cuz the guy gave us a sample and it was good.
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| Confeitaria Nacional (Picture 1D) |
We were starting to get pretty full, but the Rick Steve's guidebook recommended going inside Lisbon's oldest bakery, Confeitaria Nacional near Praca da Figueira (Picture 1D), so we graciously obliged. The bakery has been open since 1829, and there's an ornate upstairs and downstairs. The lady at the counter wasn't too helpful with explaining what all the beautiful cookies, pastries and candies were, so I just took a gamble and pointed to a few items that looked good to us. ALL were yummy!
2. Stroll the Alfama Neighborhood
We chose to stay in the Alfama neighborhood because we wanted to experience the charm of Lisbon's old sailors' quarters. It was fun to wander around (and get lost) in the narrow winding streets and cobblestone alleys of Alfama, equipped with Grandmas people watching out of their homes, and laundry hung to dry outside windows. And at night, Fado music can be heard out of some restaurants. It felt like authentic old time Lisbon and we loved the history and ambiance of the area.
Go with an open mind (it's pre-1775 earthquake architecture, so walls will be cracked with peeling paint, not shiny and spiffy!), good walking shoes and well rested legs, and you'll enjoy this old world charm.
3. Take a Day Trip to Sintra's Pena Palace (Palacio Nacional de Pena)
We signed up for a private guided tour of Sintra and Cascais from our Airbnb host because we only had 4 days in Lisbon and were short on time; plus our host had so much enthusiasm for the country he grew up in, describing relatively unknown but cool attractions around Lisbon. Unfortunately, our host got sick and sent a replacement. Although she was super nice and a sweetheart, she did not speak English very well. Whether you opt for a guided tour or go on your own, we highly recommend doing a day trip to Sintra to see the Pena Palace and the Quinta de Regaleira.
The Pena Palace history and architectural style is best described at the website linked here, so I won't regurgitate it on this post.
We arrived early Monday morning (before 9:15AM) by car with our guide and the line to purchase tickets was short. (We were afraid the palace would be packed since Sintra was a good option on Mondays when a number of attractions in Lisbon were closed). We purchased the combo “Palace and Park ticket” and went into the palace grounds, admiring the eclectic architecture as well as the stunning views from the palace terrace. I have to say though that the exterior of the palace was definitely more impressive than the interior, but it was still fun to see Arab influences inside the rooms and also how short the beds were back then!
Afterwards, we walked around the palace gardens and hiked to the top of the High Cross (Cruz Alta). The gardens were much calmer than the palace. My favorite though was spying a fairy castle like building in the middle of a lake in the garden. So magical!
Three hours allotted at Pena Palace went by in a snap.
4. Take a Day Trip to Sintra's Quinta de Regaleira
After visiting the Pena Palace, we met back up with our guide to be transported to the Quinta de Regaleira, an estate designed by Italian architect, Luigi Manini, for Monteiro, a wealthy merchant.
Our friends told us about this masonic palace equipped with an ancient spiraling well, secret hidden tunnels, bridges and stepping stones. We visited when the weather was overcast with a slight drizzle, so the castles and structures made us feel like we were inside a fairytale. We would go down the initiation well and emerge from a secret tunnel, and then look on the map and be bewildered at how we started and ended in two seemingly unconnected locations.
5. View the April 25th Bridge Up close at Pilar 7
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| April 25th Bridge (Picture 5A) |
About half way between Lisbon and Belem lies the April 25th Bridge. Walking along the docks (Estacionamento Docas, Picture 5A) we could see the entire April 25th Bridge with the Cristol Rey in the background. If not for the Cristol Rey, and the trains on the lower deck of the bridge, you might mistake this for the San Francisco Golden Gate Bridge!
We bought a 1 day Lisboa card which included entrance to the Pilar 7 Experience. Pilar 7 Experience was not on the itinerary, but we were near by and didn't want to waste the ticket, so on a whim, we stopped in to check it out-- and boy were we glad we did!
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| Inside cables (Picture 5B) |
The highlight of the Pilar 7 Experience for us was to ride an elevator up to the top of the April 25th bridge (same level as where the cars run) and see the anchoring cables inside the bridge (Picture 5B), as well as stand on a glass floor to view down the inside of the bridge. It was both scary and exhilarating at the same time. You definitely can't get this experience on the San Francisco Golden Gate bridge! (The history of the construction of the bridge as well as the views of Belem and Lisbon at the top were nice too.)
Best part? This is a hidden gem and NOT crowded at all. We pretty much had the whole museum to ourselves...
6. Eat Portuguese Egg Tarts (Pastels de Nata) at Pasteis de Belem
We slotted a whole day to tour Belem, a district that is west of Lisbon. Belem was where Vasco de Gama and other Portuguese navigators set sail to explore the world in the 15th Century, ushering Portugal into the Golden Age of Discoveries--so there's plenty of things to occupy your whole day in Belem.
But a visit to Belem is not complete until you stop by the bakery with the dark blue awning next door to the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos. (Rua de Belém 84-92). This bakery, dating back to 1837, sells their famous Portuguese egg tarts using an ancient secret recipe developed by Belem monks. Today, the bakery produces over 20,000 egg tarts A DAY. The lines are long for the take out treat, but move fast. We were there twice, and each time, we waited maybe 15-20 min to get our hands on these goodies.
The custard is perfectly eggy, creamy and still warm with a crispy crust. Dust it with cinnamon or powdered sugar, if you prefer.
Heavenly! I'll bet you can't stop at eating just one.
7. Visit the Gulbenkian Museum
The Gulbenkian Museum collection spans 5,000 years, but by just displaying a few select pieces from each era, the museum is not overwhelming. You can walk through 5,000 years of human history in just a few hours!
Aside from the Founder's collection, there was also a Modern Collection. I found the exhibit on Portuguese art work, and how that changed as Portugal moved from a dictatorship to a democracy, the most educational and enjoyable.
8. Experience Sunset at Mirador de Nossa Senhora
A long steep climb uphill from the 28E tram is what it takes to get to Mirador de Nossa Senhora, but totally worth it to enjoy the sunset views of Lisbon. (I think you can pretty much see the whole city from the castle to the bridge from this view point.) While you will not be alone at the mirador, it's not overly crowded once the sun sets, and you can admire the city lights and reflect on all your previous days in the city in relative peace.
It was the perfect ending to our short visit to Lisbon.
Farewell, and we will be back, as 4 days was not enough for this beautiful charming city...
Our Lisbon Itinerary in April 2019
(Sunrise ~7:22AM, sunset 7:58PM; Temperature: Low 53 F, high 70 F)
| Date | Time | Activity |
| Day 1 | 12PM | Arrive in Lisbon. Meet Nuno. Check into Alfama Santa Luzia Air BnB |
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| 2PM | Follow Rick Steve’s Barrio Alto and Chiado Walking Guide |
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| Praca de Comercio, Visit longest escalator @ Baixia-Chiado Metro Stop, Sao Roque Church, Miradouro Sao Pedro de Alcantara, Gloria Funicular, Rossio Square |
| Day 2 | 6AM | Sunrise at Alfama’s Santa Luzia |
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| 7:30AM | Breakfast at Pastelaria Guadalupe d’ Alfama |
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| 8AM | Private tour of Sintra |
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| 9AM | Pena Palace |
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| 1PM | Quinta de Regaleira |
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| 3PM | Azenhas do Mar |
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| 4:30PM | Cabo da Roca (Western most point of Continental Europe) |
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| 5PM | Blow hole |
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| 5:30PM | Belem Portuguese egg tarts |
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| 7PM | Dinner at Lisboa Tu y Eu in Alfama |
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| 9PM | Night views of Santa Luzia Mirador |
| Day 3 | 9AM | Buy 1 day Lisboa Card |
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| 9:30AM | Estacionamento Docas and Pilar 7 Experience |
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| 11AM | Coaches Museum |
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| 1PM | Jeronimos Monastery |
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| 3PM | Discoveries Monument |
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| 3:30PM | Belem Tower |
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| 4:30PM | Belem Portuguese egg tarts |
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| 5PM | LX Factory |
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| 6PM | Ferry from Terminal Fluvial-Cais do Sodre to Cacilhas Dinner at Cabrinha |
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| 8:30PM | Uber to Cristol Rey |
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| 10PM | Ferry back to Lisbon |
| Day 4 | 9AM | Gulbenkian Museum |
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| noon | Park Edward VII |
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| 1PM | Alfama Stroll |
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| 2PM | Fado Museum |
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| 3PM | Tile Museum |
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| 5PM | Dinner at Lisboa Tu y Eu |
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| 7PM | Mirador de Nossa Senhora |
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| 9PM | Ride 28E tram loop |
| Day 5 | AM | Fly home |